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Russian Restaurant Named One of World's 50 Best

19. April 2011 by Christy 0 Comments

Varvary, a restaurant in Moscow dedicated to the art molecular gastronomy, earned a spot on S. Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Helmed by celebrated Russian chief Anatoly Komm, Varvary is the first Russian restaurant to earn a spot on the prestigious list. Varvary ranked #48.

“Chef Anatoly Komm is turning heads with an approach that is unashamedly 'traditional Russian' on the one hand, but exciting and contemporary on the other,” reads S. Pellegrino’s website. “Fans of Komm include Ferran Adrià, who praises the chef for turning clichéd Russian cuisine on its head by combining traditional dishes and contemporary techniques with spectacular results.”

Despite critical acclaim, it seems Varvary has very few Russian visitors. In an interview with Swallow Magazine last year, Komm estimated that 90% of his customers are foreigners. So why the lack of Russian diners?

"They prefer to eat sh**," the chef said. "They don't care about food, you know? It doesn't matter what they put in their stomachs—sh** or chocolate—because it's all the same."

Critics point out that the lack of Russian visitors probably has more to do do with the restaurant’s prices than unsophisticated tastes. A meal at Varvary runs about $400 a head, and that doesn’t include drinks.

Produced by Restaurant magazine, S. Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants in an annual list ranking the world’s best eateries as based on a poll of international chefs, restaurateurs, gourmands, and critics. This year, Denmark’s Noma restaurant earned top honors.

Click here to see the full list of the world’s 50 best restaurants.